Man and Tourism

6/17/15

   
                     It was strange to end my Amazon journey. For one, I never got to trek in the forest: the water was still too high to do any meaningful walking trips. Secondly, I felt like I was just getting used to living (in comfort) in the jungle: the nice 3 meals a day, endless tea/coffee, big room to myself, nice cold showers 3 times a day. It was easy to forget that’s not how most people live in the Amazon; or the fact that there is so much deforestation and animal killings in the jungle. ( I know, I have been using the words jungle and forest interchangeably: not correct!) When you are a tourist, you pay for the comfort and luxury, and hence has a surreal experience. Yet, many locals also depend on tourism for their livelihood. This the eternal traveler dilemma (one which I feel quite privilege to have): to visit or not to visit? How much to spend? Should I do ecotourism, offset my carbon footprint? Volunteer? What is a good tourist to do?

As usual, I woke up to the sound of jungle and slowly remember when I was. It is nice to lie in the dark, listening to the surround sound while counting the number of new mosquito bites I gained in the last 8 hours. After that, I went for a quick cold shower, eat the awesome breakfast, and then head to my tour. Disappointingly, Eduardo told me due to the high water, I could not do the jungle hike. I was to join another group of 3 (which included my new found engineer friend Julian), and went for the canoe excursion. It was disappointing because I was really looking forward to a hike in the famous Amazon jungle (well, I guess pretend to be an explorer is a version of fulfilling my dream of an adventurer), but also, I already did he same tour 2 days ago. The guides covered the same topics and showed the same termite nest, and we all sat under the heat while the guides paddled the canoe. I am not sure who suffered more- us for being bored and sat under the roasting sun; or the guides for paddling so much. I think they could have easily asked us to do some paddling, and we would all been more satisfied. 
After lunch, I packed up my bags, said goodbye to my nice private room, (but not before overhearing the Australian couple talked about how the Chinese they met on a trip rushed to the buffet line. A little ironic, since their group was the first in line for lunch, and complained loudly about food from yesterday…) and headed back to Iquitos. To me, the trip was quite a complicated event: I finally went into the famous Amazon, saw many incredible things, witness some amazing sights: but did not fulfill the dream of walking in the forest and seeing a wild caiman in the dark. However, I think I made some good impression since the bartender yelled both “Argentina” and “Hong Kong” when we departed: for me and Julian. 
Julian and I arrived in Iquitos and had 2 missions: find a bar to watch the football game, and find a caiman tooth necklace (ah, I am the one who want the necklace, of course). I think we both kind of failed since the game was a day ago, and I did not buy anything. In the end, Julian chatted with a tour guide and we made a trip to see the floating town- Belen. It is a poorer area of the town, with more than 18,000 inhabitants. The town consisted of wooden floating boat houses built on rafts fixed to large wood piles, and houses on stilts. Interestingly, the town actually have electricity, water, streets lights, a bar, petrol stations and many more. It is quite the engineering feat and we were both suitably impressed. Sine the local inhabitants uses boats and canoes as main form of transportation, it is also known as “Venice of Loreto”. While life is rustic and simple, it is also quite a shock to someone like me who is used to boathouses in Seattle. These houses are made of plywood, timber and sheet metal. The wood is so thin that you can see through them, and some houses looked to be falling apart with trash flaring underneath. It is a far cry from the luxury houseboats, but the inhabitants seemed to be enjoying themselves in their everyday life. The kids were jumping into the water, and everyone waved at us when our tour boat passed by. There were kite flying on houses , football games and “swimming pools” all around town.
After our tour, Julian and I went on a last mission: to find the Amazonica – a beer produced in the Peruvian Amazon. I am glad to say we finally succeeded. We sat in a opened air restaurant enjoying our cold beer (and a fruit salad for me) while watching sunset facing plaza de armas with crazy traffic (filled with motorcycles and motorcycle rickshaws). It was quite the perfect end, sinceJulian and I had to part ways. He will be flying tomorrow and traveling south, while I will stay in Lima for a day before busing north to Mancora. Well, almost the perfect ending, since we were constantly bombarded by people begging for money, selling sunglasses, and asking for weird churches donations. 
At the airport, I used my time wisely and decided to type up my entry of the day. So far, I am not quite sure what a good and conscientious tourist should and would do, but I hope I have been one thus far. I really want to see the world and everything it has to offer. At the same time, I also want to save the animals and not introduce too much commercialism to the local population. I have learned not to give people money on the streets (even to children), and tried very hard to buy something whenever I am on a tour. For me, the visit to Belen felt much more “real” than the tribe visits. Maybe I am quite the cynic, but I will always be happy to buy something from local shops when I visit a new place. I know they are dependent on tourists for business and income. As for people begging, singing, or selling things to me when I am in a restaurant/bar/other establishments/train station/ bus terminal : I appreciate the effort, but I really prefer to enjoy my meals without distraction, and find my way around a new station in peace. 
(Well, I say that now….)

Man and Rain

6/16/15

   
                       I like rain (well, I do live in Seattle after all), but in moderation, of course. One of my favorite past time is to air in a coffee house, reading a book (or whatever electronics i have), while enjoying the sound and sights of rain. I also like running in rain: it gives a lot more motivation to finish the run so I can take a hot shower. Of course, as a civil engineer who does mainly drainage, rain is part of my career. I pay a little more attention to flood, to rain fall events, hydrography, and sea/River level. It is, in essence, in my everyday life. 

The fourth day in Amazon started just like the third: I had breakfast, then got ready for my 9am tour to Isla de Mono (the Monkey Island). Since I am the solo tourist left, my guide and I boarded a small open boat and headed to the island. Within 10 minutes, it was raining heavily and I was soaked. Of course, this being in Amazon, the sun also came out for a while, so I was in the rinse and dry cycle for another 40 minutes. With being simultaneously wet and dry, I have also never realized how uncomfortable my ass could be, especially riding on such hard surface (sorry, even I could not stop giggling after typing that two sentence).
The Island of Monkey is actually a monkey sanctuary. Founded in 2011, it partners with the Dallas aquarium and has built a visitor center to showcase, protect, raise and tame monkeys. In Amazon, monkeys are eaten as part of the local diet, and hence the numbers are decreasing at an alarming rate. Unfortunately, there was a huge flood in 2014, and much of the visitor center was covered with mud. When I arrived, they were in the process of cleaning up and getting the center ready for tourist season. I was greeted by quite a few monkeys who climbed all over me, pulled my hair, took my glasses, combed me for fleas: the usual monkey treatment. I saw a marmoset, spider monkey, tamarin, titi monkey, and many more. They gave me a short tour of the center, and asked for a donation. I never quite found out why I was not allowed to walk on the island itself. I was ushered in and out within record time.
In the afternoon, I visited another animal reserve. Of course, it also rained the whole way there, but my guide managed to wrangle up a covered boat this time. The reserve was pretty amazing with caiman, anaconda, Victoria lily, parrots, piraña, and many more. My guide brought some feed so I can feed the animals with raw fish and animal feed. (PSA: I am a big fan of saving animals, but not a fan of turning them into petting zoo exhibits. I understand, however, some of their habitats are completely destroyed and thus must be contained in an enclosure. Or must they?)
On the way back, it was pouring rain again, coupled with howling wind. Even with the cover, we were completely soaked. It was amazing to see people crossing the Amazon on a small flat boat during a storm. I saw fishermen pulling up nets, children with their parents heading somewhere, and other tourists in their tour boats all trying to get to their respective destinations. When I got back to the lodge, I took a very cold shower (since we have no hot water for shower), and am now lying in a hammock, fighting off mosquito, while typing this entry. I guess being in Amazon brought a little more perspective on rain. As with most people, I cod afford to enjoy rain because I know there will be hot shower after I got caught in the rain, or because I could observe the rain from a dry and comfortable place. I did not have to fight the elements for survival, and that option give me a chance to appreciate the beauty of nature. Things are quite different when I am directly under rain or sun.
 (Well, time to go get my dinner and instant coffee! Still pretty good life in a lodge…I also met an Argentinan civil engineer who also does drainage at the lodge. His name is Julian, and he is on a 2 months trek from Lima to Buenos aires. I had a great time taking to him, especially when he brought out a big bottle of fernet. Here’s to wishing him a great trip!)

In case you are trying to visit Iquitos, here are something I leaned [please consider it a suggestion only. I am no means an expert in anything]:

1. Visit during the tourist season (July to September). The place will be better prepared for tourists, and the water level should be lower so you can do trekking, not just boating all the time.
2. Fly to Iquitos from Lima via LAN or Peruvian airline. They have daily flights, and is relatively reasonably priced (US$100+)
3. When you land, you can either pick a tour company at the airport, or take a cab to plaza de armas and find one there. Be sure to ask a few for price comparison. Also, check websites for amenities and photos. Many lodges now have wifi, air conditioning, pool, etc.
4. Be sure to bring enough clothes. You sweat a lot and things get muddy fast. Also get lots of sunscreen and insect repellent. And water. And flashlight. And poncho. And good shoes (they also rent rain boots here). 

5. I’d say unless you are a huge jungle fan, 3 days 2 nights is a great trip length. Be sure to ask your guide for itinerary, and you should ask about places/things you want to go/see. They should be able to adjust their itinerary for you. 

6. This is actually a very lazy type of excursion. You have no more than 4 excursions a day, and the majority of time is spent waiting: in your room. In a hammock, etc. You can’t take a stroll in the jungle alone (well, you can. But may not come back alive), no place to run or exercise. Buffet for all meals too. I have actually gained weight in 5 days. (Worse than Salar de Uyuni. Colca canyon, on the other hand, was great for losing weight….)

Man and Fish

6/15/15

   
           I have been told I like to romanticize many things. For example, I like to think most human beings are good people; that the world is getting better; and that places I want to go are pretty awesome. Of course, when you build up expectations, disappointments are bound to happen. When I first arrived in New York City, people who were showing me around expected me to be in awe and shock. Unfortunately, it is also a city, and since I grew up I cities, it was a lot less spectacular that I thought. But with time, i knew a little more about NYC and really liked places such as Broadway, Flushing, and even Queens. 
The third day in Amazon was a lot more relaxed: we only start our first tour at 9am. I think since most people take short tours, the companies and guides try to pack a lot in the first 2 days. Our remaining group met for breakfast, and I was a little surprised to learn that everyone else would be leaving this afternoon: leaving me the only person in the group for 2 more days! (I originally thought I’d be alone with the guide for only for a day…) I was a little worried about being the last man standing, since I was already a little tired of the heat, and more importantly, of being bitten everywhere by mosquito. (I mean, I already put deet on and still got bitten…how? Why?!) I had lived in Singapore and been to the jungle in Thailand, but the heat and humidity still get me.
We all got into other boat and was driven to a river for the first activity: piraña fishing. We were all given sticks, hooks and baits. The art of piraña fishing is: drop the bait, hit the water with fishing pole (create disturbance), wait for a bite and the. pull up quickly. The small pirañas nibble on the bait, while the big ones snatch the meat away. It is quite an experience to fish for a creature with fearsome reputation. It took the group at least 20 minutes before someone hooked the first one. We were also told that there are 3 types of pirañas in the water, and the red variety is the most ferocious, and is also the type we see in the movies. I think I was the last in the group to hook one (I did also catch a very small catfish), and the Japanese lady actually caught three. In the end, we had about 7, and were told they would be served for lunch (which we actually did, though only as a treat. The main course was catfish).
After lunch, I nodded goodbye to everyone and saw that a huge groups of 18 people had arrived (but mostly families with small children). My guide told me to get ready a hike, so I did. We took a small boat (with him at the helm and another operating the motor, leaving me in the middle), and was rained upon mercilessly. I was soaked, and had to move my phone to inside the life vest. It was only when we started walking that I realized: we were walking along a village with electricity, running water, storm drain,etc. I was quite amused by this, and was quite distracted when my guide, Eduardo, pointed out plants and tracks to me. We saw papaya, banana, yuca, and many others that I could not remember. He explained the uses, properties and even let me tried some fruits he picked up from the ground. When he reached the village, he brought me to the bar and that was when I found out: he grew up in the village and was trying to visit some families. We sat in the local bar with him talking to

his uncle while I tried to understand the Spanish. It was an interesting way to spend the afternoon.
When I got back, I had to take a shower and was then instantly attacked by Mosquito. So far, I love the amazing diversity, the scenery, the people and the culture; but I really hate getting bitten and the unending heat and humidity. As with all places I have visited, the Amazon has a great deal of pluses and some negatives. I really love visiting this place, but doubt I will be willing to settle down here. I mean, I am always excited to connect with Mother Earth. But I really don’t think she has connected with me yet (unless the rain counts and mosquitoes are taking my blood sacrifice). I still have one day and 1/2 in the jungle: I am hoping something will change my mind like that of NYC.
(Ouch. I think I just got bitten again. Time for my malaria pills!)

Man and Vision

6/14/15

   
                       I have pretty bad eyesight (well, that’s almost like saying Bill Gates is a rich man, if you get my drift.) I have long given up on doing quite a number of water sports since I cannot see without my glasses. I have also learned my lessons that when people ask if you can see something, especially on a birdwatching/hiking/animal seeing trip, it is so much easier to say yes. If not, the helpful person will always try to point the animal/object out and we will both waster 15 minutes while getting increasingly frustrate with each other. In those instances, a simple white lie is the best policy.

The night went by pretty peacefully in the forest with lots of sounds. I am not sure if they were insects, birds, animals or yet to be discovered species, but it made an excellent lullaby (well, until you hear things moving below your raised cabin…). We set off at 6am for bird watching. It was still relatively dark, and I could not made out 50% of the birds the guide was trying to point out. I just said yes, made the usual “ohh” and “ahh” (wow, that came out dirty). I love the early morning on the river: it was not too hot not humid, and there were sounds and noises everywhere. I never felt as alive or as a part of the forest in any other setting. For the past month, I have hiked mountains, bike downhill, see salt flats and visited many cities. The scenery still never fails to amaze me. It is always quiet, peaceful in the mountains. The salt flat is just..silent with wind howling. But jungles are full of life everywhere (and one just bit me on the arm actually). I am always in awe of how many living creatures there are, and how diverse the species can be.
In the afternoon, we visited a tribe. They pano yes our faces, danced with us, allowed us to use their blow darts and pet their pet sloth. While it might have been a little touristy, it was a lot of fun. I was finally guilt tripped into buying something from them in the end. Also, as one guy in our groups said: no bra! Although as always, people without a bra are usually those you least likely want to see without a bra. (Please feel free to prove me wrong!) The second part involved a lot of sitting in a canoe while the guides rowed the boat. They brought us to a house that is supposed to be a museum for sugar cane production tools and medicinal herbs: nicely names as the agricultural museums. As usual, we were sold bottles of local medicine (always with alcohol content- since they use alcohol to soak the herb/bark/wood). We then had a view of a pretty great sunset, and then with our guides being too tired, they managed to get a motorboat, and have them drag us back.
Back in my cabin without electricity, it is still super hot and humid, and I am still constantly attacked by Mosquitos. But with my nice skill of pretending to see things other people managed to see but I cannot, I am at least spare the fate of being asked again and again :”you see that bird/animal/insect? No? It is to your right….”
(Although I would gladly trade that for Mosquitos to stop biting me. I think I am their newest buffet course in the jungle. Ah diversity!)

Man and Mosquito

6/13/15

   
                      I am not a big fan of tropical weather. When I was living in Singapore, the heat and humidity was just something I could never get used to. I remember taking 2 showers a day, trying to stay dry but soaking my clothes whenever I step outside (I mean sweat!). At the same time, mosquito loves me. I will always be the first one to get bitten and probably be bitten the most number of times. I think there is a correlation between perspiration and attracting Mosquitoes. To escape, I finally moved to Seattle, where there is few mosquito (thus far- who know what will happen with climate change), and the weather is much colder.
To get to Iquitos, I woke up at 3:30am to catch the 6:20am flight from Lima airport. The airport is surprisingly far away from Miraflores, hence costed me a lot of soles. Interestingly, the airport is not connected directly to the highway, which caused quite a traffic mess at the airport entrance. I checked in (way early- I blame the stupid hotel receptionist who insisted I have to be there 2 hours before departure time…) , passed through security (good to know there is also a liquid limit here), and waited for my flight. The rest was pretty standard procedure: boarded, sat next to a baby watching iPad, listened to some Spanish children songs along the way, had a free sandwich and muffin, landed at Iquitos international airport (?!). 

Iquitos is an interesting place. The largest city unreachable by roads, one can only fly in, or take the local boats used for transporting goods. It is the capital of Loreto, province of Maynas, and near the Peruvian Amazon. It is the main river port, and close to confluence of Napo and Amazon River. The city is filled with Motorbikes and motorbikes rickshaw (moto taxi). We were told it is popular due to the weather- too hot to sit in a car. They also have wooden buses for public transportation, with windows that one pull up during the rain. I joined a 4 other tourists and waited at a hotel lobby to start our tour.

We boarded a “ferry” and met out tour guide. Apparently. I am the only one doing a full 5 days tour. The others all had 3-4 days tour. As we drove along the river for the one hour boat ride to base camp, out guide explained a little about the Amazon River in Peru. The Amazon has a whirlpool effect here, which stirs up sediments and make the eager look muddy. The Amazon River runs through Columbia, Peru, Brazil. It is about 7000 km, starting in Arequipa for Peru, runs through the Andes and end up here near Iquitos.

We arrived at our lodge, with no electricity and Internet. (I was told by other tourists there is a better one with pool, wifi and electricity. But it was sold out, not under renovation as they told me…). We were given some orientation on meal times, activities times and then off for our first tour: the river. I must say, nothing much happened except I could not stop perspiring. The second tour was of the animal sanctuary: with parrots, anaconda, monkeys, sloth, etc roaming in a shelter and we were allowed to touch and take photos with all the animals. They also explained some local plant medicines and alcohol. It was relatively similar to the tour I had in Thailand- except the Thai actually soak insects (scorpions, centipedes, etc. ) in their alcohol.The third tour involved watching sunset and dolphins: again pretty similar to Thailand. 

I got back to the lodge and found myself under constant attack by the Mosquitos. They were relentless and I was constantly reminded why I moved to a colder climate. I guess it is true what they say about your past: it does always come back to haunt you. In my case, it is thousands of old memories coming for my blood. I mean, I am really excited to finally visit the famous Amazon, but I really want to save my blood for more people who need it more…