Category Archives: Bolivia

Language Identity

7/3/16

I speak only 2 languages fluently: Chinese (and only 2 dialects at that), and English. It always fascinates me to visit a place where I do not know the local language, since that forces me to adapt and be flexible. It is also interesting (to me) that a lot of people associate their identity with their spoken language. When I was in South America, while most speaks Spanish, they are also extremely proud of their native languages. From Quechua to Amyara, locals see having a unique language as a matter of pride. It made me realize why the Spanish immediately enforced the use of their own language when they conquered the continent.

Since I was only on Canada for a short time, Randy suggested a day trip to the great city of Montreal. The largest city in Quebec, Montreal also speaks French, and has often threatened to become an independent state. With a short time on this beautiful city, we visited the Market (because we were very hungry), and the old town Montreal. We walked around the port area, the Place Jacques-Cartier, and many of the small fashion stores. We also visited the famous smoked meat sandwich shop, had some poutine, and drank some cool beers.

As we were driving back, I could jot help but wonder: can Quebec become the next UK and exit Canada? Does speaking differ bet languages really make it tough to be unified in aspirations and goals? I am not sure how everyone else feel, but I still believe in unity and cooperation over isolation. The world is a better place when we all work towards the same goal, and I hope we will proceed that way. 

School and Students

7/2/15

   
    
    
   
When you are traveling, you tend to meet lots of people along the way (err..unless you went to a deserted island and befriend a volleyball?). It is always a matter of luck and attitude on whether you make new friends along the way. Sometimes, you walk into a restaurant and friendly traveler would chat with you. Other days, you can join a trek or a tour and not talk to anyone other than introduction. Sometimes you can’t help but wonder: would it be easier to make friends if I am more verbose? More handsome (so far, observation says yes)? Drink more? Be Caucasian? Then you feel a little jealous of people who seem to have the ability to be the center of attention and make friends easily. Finally, you realize: is this high school/secondary school all over again?!
My Spanish class continued on with commands and action verbs. I have to admit: the class structure in my school at Sucre is a lot clearer. I now appreciate how the teachers at Open Spanish made me memorized words, do tons of homework, and presented the lessons in a clear, precise manner that allows good note taking. In fact, I think most Spanish schools use about the same textbooks, with the same homework and lessons plans. 
Actually, the school here does a lot to encourage student interactions: coffee breaks, activities, and weekend trips. I met and talked to quite a few students over coffee breaks this week. I met a family (grandparents, their daughter and granddaughter) who are here to study Spanish. The mother can apeak fluently, but wants to learn more about local idioms and sayings. Her daughter took a year of Spanish in her current high school, and so the whole family is here for an immersion program. I must say: I am totally jealous. Imagine traveling the world learning different languages! (On the other hand, with my progress in Spanish, that may just take the Reagan of my natural life…)

I think one incident describes the current student body well. During the coffee break, the school announced that they would take us to eat Cuy of more than 5 students were interested. Out of the 16, only 3 (including me, of course), raises our hands. It was a little surprising, since I thought people would at least be interested in going to a restaurant together. I wonder if a group of Chinese students would jump to that opportunity (ah stereotypes!)? I also checked with some of the U.S. students about watching Copa America final on July 4th, but they nicely but firmly said they were busy. 

Studying at night, I felt a little let down in Cuenca. The city is nice, friendly, clean and well kept, but I have not had a lot of luck in making new friends. I now realize my memory (favorable or not) of a city depend heavily on whether I meet and make new friends there. I guess as human beings, we are all social creatures (well, mostly) and interactions define our experience. I can now appreciate the importance of having a a good group of friends (especially in high school). Hopefully, I will make lots of new friends as I travel along, and make more stereotype jokes. Until then, I better get back to my Spanish verbs and homework…

(Or should I just paint myself white? Pretend to be a Caucasian? Wear color contacts and dye my hair? Wait, that sounds like a lot of work. May as well watch some Spanish telenovela. That covers study and entertainment at the same time. I see The original Ugly Betty is on!)

Sunday and Rest

5/24/15

  
   
 For the most part, I love traveling. It gets me to new places with culture and people I can learn much from. I am always pretty excited about being in a different country, seeing how everyone coexist in a hostel/hotel. But of course, there are downsides to traveling too (well, budget traveling, that is). The lack of privacy can be overwhelming, the roommates that share your room maybe throwing up at 4am in the morning, there might be a party going on right outside your door at odd hours (any hour after midnight is odd), etc. I know, most of these can be solved with money, but unfortunately my travel budget is not that high. Plus, I might have had some way too great experiences from past trips. This may have created some unrealistic expectation, especially on making friends and travel buddies.

Sunday, is of course, the day of rest in South America. I woke up to snoring from the next bunk. (Joy of hostel living!) My roommates currently consists of 1 lady who works in the hostel and 2 Aussies – who had a big night out on Friday, stayed in the whole day Saturday and finally decided to sightsee today. I walked down the hall to find the 4 Asian-American guys I said hi to last night. One funny thing about being an Asian- fellow Asians are not friendly to you 75% of the time. It is a very weird phenomenon- they tend to run away after some small talks. I have also noticed that in this hostel, being a Caucasian gets you very far- people will come up to talk to new faces (if they are white). This is especially prevalent in Bolivia, and I am not quite sure why. I guess being caucasian still carries more legitimacy? 

I ate my usual fruit salad at the fruit store, and noticed one of the ladies talking to a little boy. I tried to buy the boy a fruit juice, but the lady I was talking to had no idea- a slight blow to my Spanish ego. However, the other 2 ladies of nearby stores seemed to understand, and told me the boy’s mother owns a fruit store upstairs, so buying him a juice is not needed.

The rest of the day was spent packing, re packing, trying to decide which tshirt I can throw away (I received 2 from separate tours), and how best to stuff my bags efficiently. I was trying to plan ahead for my 6am departure, and hope to make as little noise as possible. I don’t know, my Chinese upbringing of being nice to everyone as much as possible is omnipresence.

As I pack, I wonder if my past travel experiences had elevated my expectations a little too much. I seriously think that being in this particular hostel was a mistake- it caters to the UK crowd, and hence not as travellers friendly as some others. So far, I found the lower end hostels and those not recommended by wiki travel or lonely planet actually have the most friendly travelers. In fact, I was at a restaurant last night and ran into 2 Aussies who chatted with me across the restaurant. Or maybe this is what traveling alone is: you constantly feel the need to balance making friends and have some sense of privacy. I guess from now on, I really need to remember I am a traveller- and not a western traveler. Being in U.S. might have skewed my views, and this is a good chance to re-adjust and re-evaluate.

(Or just be Rich. Money seems to solve almost all problems when traveling….)

Cable and car

5/23/15

   
   
   

  

  

    
 There are a lot of public transportation options nowadays. Bus, light rail, high speed rail, trams, cable cars, subway, etc. (I think Seattle tries to vote on all of them from time to time…I mean, this is the city that wants to expand monorail even though they already started construction on light rail and street cars.) However, it has to make sense for the investment, which nowadays can cost a massive amount of money. Not only that, the citizen must support it (well, in a democratic place, that is), or the president must have enough authority to push it through. 

It was tough waking up today because I actually had a good night’s sleep. I mean, my roommates only came back drunk at 6am, so I had lots of time to sleep in silence. I decided to leave La Paz in Monday, and head to Copacabana ( I feel like the song will never stop playing in my head) to see the famous Isla de Sol and Lake Titicaca. At the same time. I want to bus from Cuzco to Lima, and stop by little towns in between. A new bus service call Bolivian Hop does that, but also cost me a lot of money. I hope they are worth it in the end!

I spent the rest of the day walking and searching for the famous cable car (teleferico). I wanted to ride the yellow line, since I was told it is the longest (heh) and it offers the best scenery. After walking for almost an hour, I finally found the entrance on top of the hill – which felt a little ironic since the cable car is supposed to bring people uphill. I got onto the yellow line, which brought me up to a vista point. The scenery is amazing- especially since La Paz is built in a valley. You basically move above all the buildings while moving up he mountain. The more interesting part was the locals. You see locals wearing the traditional dresses, along with younger generations in modern shirts and tshirts. It was a lot of fun.

I came back to the hostel for a quick rest (and realize my 2 drunken roommates were still in the room after 8 hours). So I ended up in the lounge area and eventually wrote this blog. As I typed this up, I realized how important public transportation is for the general public. La Paz said it will open 10 more in 5 years(!). This will hopefully do wonders for local population moving around the city. In the meantime, I do wish Seattle can make up its mind on public transportation and actually invest in it. Now where is my hover craft?! Was back to the future not accurate?!

Altitude and Adjustment

5/21/15

   

   
I like to think I can adjust to many situations. From countries to study and to work, I have gone under many adjustment periods. It is not always easy, but somehow I find a way through. However, there are times when there are just limits that I should respect.

Today was an interesting day. The three Americans in my room had a 6am flight, so they were up at 3:30am. Being in a shared room, it is difficult not to get woken up when the majority of the room is stirring. I woke up, fell back asleep for 2 hours and then new people started to arrived (even though official check in is at 2pm…). Giving up, I had the lousy hostel breakfast of instant coffee and bread, and left for the free walking tour.

Turned out, the walking tour is no longer free (seemed a little deceptive there), and it cost 20 Bolivianos. Since I was already there, I just stayed with the tour. It was an educated tour: they brought us to the witches market, the squares, the government buildings, and some local interest locations. The most interesting part was of course the witches market. They explained the use of llama fetus (as an offering to Mother Earth), and the blending of religions when the Spaniards moved in. They also suggested some big buildings use human sacrifice as foundations. Surprisingly, that sounds quite similar to the western myths. 

We ended the tour, as usual, on a bar with a discussion on the current president. It seems like Bolivia has had some trouble past, with more than 200 presidents in the past 150 years. They mentioned a past president who ran off with the country’s wealth, and is now staying in Maryland. Quite a lot were also said about the current president, who found a “loophole” and stayed for the 3rd term. It is funny how people complained bitterly about U.S. , but think that a loophole is an ingenious way to start a presidential term.

Unfortunately, I actually felt a lot worse in the afternoon. Not quite sure if it is altitude sickness or my sickness lingering, I had to go back to the hostel to rest. And of course within 45 mins, there were new people coming to the room, cleaning, bathrooms cleaning, and lots of chattering. These are the time when I really want my own room, peace and quiet for the rest of the day. Even a suggestion about aeeing female wrestling did not arouse my energy level. 

Some people said I should really go back to sea level and then climb on altitude again. I am still hoping I can fight through this, like I have adjusted to many other things before. I am not sure whether it will work. But I sure hope my perseverance wins again.

(Well, or u will see the newspaper article on a silly tourist who died on the most dangerous road because he fell unconscious during the bike ride…)

Sick and hostel

5/19/15

       
   

  

  

  

            

  As I grow older, I am finding my definition for “basic” necessities has expanded a great deal. I now need water, sewer, gas, microwave, food and available Internet. When I am sick, that list grows even more. I now want my private bathroom, a private bedroom, a fridge so I can have food, and a comfortable bed that allows me to sleep up to 16 hours a day.

The bus from Sucre to La Paz was a lot better than that of Potosi to Sucre, but it is still a far cry from those in Argentina or Santiago. The temperature varied from extreme heat to deep freeze along the night. Random people seem to occupy random seats, and the bathroom was always locked. The bus driver did stop about 3 times through the night for bathroom breaks (usually in a bus station or some remote food store- and is likely to drive off without counting passengers), and the bus was only about an hour late. This would all be ok if I was not sick. I have moved from sore throat to flu. This, coupled with the fact I was traveling to the highest capital in the world, was not the ideal situation. 

I met two British ladies at the bus stop who decided to try my hostel (wild rover). We all shared a cab, and when they said they had no change, I paid for the fare. They finally decided not to stay at the hostel, and claiming they had no change, said they will pay me back later. I am pretty sure I will never see them again.

The hostel (Wild Rover) has a reputation as a party hostel. They made me wait until 2pm to check in, and when I got to the room (with 2 gals and 1 guy just arrived), we found used condorms, drink cups, trash all around the room. The beds were not made (someone came half hour later for that). Again, though I found the whole thing quite funny; that did joy help with my sickness. To allow the room to be cleaned, I went to the market to grab some food and just did a little sight seeing. I hope I recover fast enough for some proper tours. I really want to ride down the Death road! 

My lethargy also did not help with making friends, since I am coughing every few words. I think I will grab a quick dinner at the hostel bar and go back to sleep.

As an end to this boring entry, I also talked to Tom to see if he can find me a better hostel online. (The power of ehatsapp and Internet!) I still really want to enjoy this hostel, but will see how my sickness and altitude factors in. I guess as we grow older, it is not that our basic necessities list grow: it is because our body are no longer in the prime shape (hmm…Apple shaped?) and we need a little more luxury to recovery. 

(Or that I just wang a private room with a hot shower. Seems a lot to ask for in Bolivia- well, for a budget traveler anyway)

On the road again- maybe

5/18/15

   
             I am on the road again- taking a night bus to La Paz (if my sore throat doesn’t turn into fever. If it does, I will be sleeping for 18 hours a day- not the best time to try La Paz.)

I just finished all my Spanish classes so far. The final practice was a conversation in Spanish about my bus travels and the need for bathrooms. It went moderately well, except my tenses were terrible. My teacher was relatively happy I actually know my mistakes and try to correct them as I go along. 

This is a short entry, since all I did was pack and go to class. My throat is not doing well, and I will see how things go. If I am still in Sucre tomorrow, you will find out via this blog. That also means I have wasted my bus ticket, and feel pretty terrible.

Shortage and Necessity

5/17/15

(Short entry- sore throat)

   
                            As a child, I love milk and soda. I mean, which kid does not like sweet stuff? (Ok, I am sure there are a few out there. Let’s try to stick to generalization…) I remember thinking that those 1 liter coke bottles were the greatest thing in the world. After a day of school, what’s better than pippin open a pop and quenching your thirst? It was when I arrived at United States that I know how bad soda is for the body. From what I know (which is very limited), ingredients of soda contain lots of calories, but never satisfy hunger. The sugar also create a temporary “High”. It took me a while to ween (heh. Ween) off soda, and started drinking mostly water.

I woke up with a pounding headache and sore throat, and decides to skip the famous Tarabuco market. I guess the market and I are destine not to meet, since it is now 2 weeks in a row that I failed to go there (last week roads were blocked by a car race). One thing good about traveling: I can just sleep in. One thing bad about traveling: I still have to go into La Paz tomorrow, so I have to walk to the bus station and get ticket. Just when I was heading out, a friend in a near hostel told me his hostel will be shutting down due to lack of water. It was a little strange since my hostel has water, but is not sure if that will last. I guess the uncertainty caused my hostel to stop taking reservations. 

While that was going on, I had to walk to the bus station (well, I could have taken a taxi. But trying k stay on budget here…). The walk was relatively pleasant, and I even stopped by to buy a jersey (again. Sigh. Budget!). I got my ticket to leave for La Paz ah 7:30pm tomorrow. Walking back, I again stopped by the fruit stand to have a mix juice- papaya and kiwi. (I wonder if the previous day’s coconut and mango cause me to have a sore throat?). Then I went back to hostel and tried to take a nap.

Only to be foiled by all the washing and bathing sounds. Apparently, everyone is afraid of water shortage and were trying to do everything when water was available. Giving up, I walked to mirador cafe for the sunset, and ran into a 3 tourists. They are from Spain, Brazil and Peru, and spoke in Spanish/English. After learning I am learning Spanish, they started to speak only Spanish, and I tried to understand as much as possible. It was a fun time since the Spanish lady spoke very little English, so they were trying to teach her English as well. It was a mix of languages, especially when the Brazilian (who also speaks Japanese),  started to talk to the  Peruvian  lady in French. I had a great time practicing my listening, but really wish I am more fluent so I can join in more. 

At the end of the night, I went to take a shower (still trying to delay studying) and realize there was limited hot water. It was a freezing time, and did not help my headache. As I stood under the shower, I realized how lucky I have been to have hot shower, water and availability of soft drinks all my life (actually,that was after. Under freezing water, all I could think was : cold). I guess you never knew how much soda and hot water could be a symbol of economic status until you experience the lack of it. What we consider basic infrastructure could very well be a luxury to many.

(Well, if I get sicker, you all know why. Why do I have to like being clean?)

Shortage and Necessity

5/17/15

(Short entry- sore throat)

    


   

  

  

 As a child, I love milk and soda. I mean, which kid does not like sweet stuff? (Ok, I am sure there are a few out there. Let’s try to stick to generalization…) I remember thinking that those 1 liter coke bottles were the greatest thing in the world. After a day of school, what’s better than pippin open a pop and quenching your thirst? It was when I arrived at United States that I know how bad soda is for the body. From what I know (which is very limited), ingredients of soda contain lots of calories, but never satisfy hunger. The sugar also create a temporary “High”. It took me a while to ween (heh. Ween) off soda, and started drinking mostly water.

I woke up with a pounding headache and sore throat, and decides to skip the famous Tarabuco market. I guess the market and I are destine not to meet, since it is now 2 weeks in a row that I failed to go there (last week roads were blocked by a car race). One thing good about traveling: I can just sleep in. One thing bad about traveling: I still have to go into La Paz tomorrow, so I have to walk to the bus station and get ticket. Just when I was heading out, a friend in a near hostel told me his hostel will be shutting down due to lack of water. It was a little strange since my hostel has water, but is not sure if that will last. I guess the uncertainty caused my hostel to stop taking reservations. 

While that was going on, I had to walk to the bus station (well, I could have taken a taxi. But trying k stay on budget here…). The walk was relatively pleasant, and I even stopped by to buy a jersey (again. Sigh. Budget!). I got my ticket to leave for La Paz ah 7:30pm tomorrow. Walking back, I again stopped by the fruit stand to have a mix juice- papaya and kiwi. (I wonder if the previous day’s coconut and mango cause me to have a sore throat?). Then I went back to hostel and tried to take a nap.

Only to be foiled by all the washing and bathing sounds. Apparently, everyone is afraid of water shortage and were trying to do everything when water was available. Giving up, I walked to mirador cafe for the sunset, and ran into a 3 tourists. They are from Spain, Brazil and Peru, and spoke in Spanish/English. After learning I am learning Spanish, they started to speak only Spanish, and I tried to understand as much as possible. It was a fun time since the Spanish lady spoke very little English, so they were trying to teach her English as well. It was a mix of languages, especially when the Brazilian (who also speaks Japanese),  started to talk to the  Peruvian  lady in French. I had a great time practicing my listening, but really wish I am more fluent so I can join in more. 

At the end of the night, I went to take a shower (still trying to delay studying) and realize there was limited hot water. It was a freezing time, and did not help my headache. As I stood under the shower, I realized how lucky I have been to have hot shower, water and availability of soft drinks all my life (actually,that was after. Under freezing water, all I could think was : cold). I guess you never knew how much soda and hot water could be a symbol of economic status until you experience the lack of it. What we consider basic infrastructure could very well be a luxury to many.

(Well, if I get sicker, you all know why. Why do I have to like being clean?)