Flight and Plan

7/20/15

   
    
    
    
    
 There is one thing I have learned about planning (ok, there is actually an occupation call planners, and I am not referring to those kind of planning): plans are nice, but somehow it will morph and change into something unrecognizable. That is usually not a bad thing though. While I love planning (and think of tons of possible problems and potential solutions- I love trying to analysizw situations and think of multiple solutions. Weird, I know. I run through scenarios in my head just to be prepared.), I also realized things seldom go according to plan. There are always random happenings that throws a perfectly well-planned plan into total chaos. Yet, that is what make life exciting (unless, of course, it is a birth plan. Wait, why am I even thinking about that?!)

I woke up to the chatter of ladies: 3 young college students (female) from Vancouver, Canada became my roommate a day before. They were really cheerful and enthusiastic about everything: it made me felt like I was living in a sorority (not that I have ever lived in a sorority. If I did, this would be a very different blog…). I decided to take things easy before my flight to Bogota, Columbia. If you have been reading this little blog (with a Napolean complex), you may realize I never planned to visit Columbia originally. I wanted to spend time in Ecuador learning Spanish and then move onto Brazil. However, events in Quito, combined with every traveler’s recommendation changes my mind. Again, I wanted to bus up to Cali, then Bogota. However, upon seeing the time needed (30 hours!), I decided to fly (1 hour 30 mins) instead. 

I visited an old church (one day I must visit a new church just for variety), walked up and down a hill, before settling into a cafe. It was the best coffee and dessert I had so far in South America (their name is Isveglio). They carried cakes (made from local fruits and yogurt), tiramisu, and chocolates, which made me salivate and wished I have found them much earlier. It was actually a nice end to Quito. 

In the Quto airport, I spent 1 hour in line for check in at the Viva Columbia counter: which was to be expected since they are a budget airline. Everything else was uneventful: there were no leg space (A 320 Airbus), no refreshment, and free seating. The excitement came at the custom. Apparently, the agent had problem scanning my passport and spent 15 minutes trying, then asking everyone around him, and made me walked with him to various counters. Amazingly, I was pretty nonchalent: years of crossing the U.S. Border had trained me well. Eventually, they allowed me into Columbia, and i ioubd my fellow passengers gathered at the luggage belt fuming (not literally. That would be amazing though). We all had to wait another 15 minutes before out luggage a started showing up unannounced on a random belt. The joy of budget airlines.

The highlight of the day? My taxi ride to the hostel. I am not sure if the taxi driver is always this friendly, but he was super excited about driving a gu from Hong Kong. Apparently he loves Jackie Chan movies and loves Hong Kong, even telling me how he likes the ladies in Hong Kong (even though he is married, I think?). Even though he did not really know the way to my hostel, he called, used GPS and then finally just winged it. In the end, he helped me with he currency (1 U.S. Dollar is about 2500 pesos- you can imagine my confusion at paying thousands of dollars), and took a photo with me. I think we got the hostel person really confused.

And that is the thing about plans- they change constantly and you learn to be flexible (yoga!) and go with the flow. In this case, I am super happy I chose to fly into Bogota: I think a 30 hours journey after my stay in Quito might have made me a very irritated man (the Ecuadorean bus system is also not the best). Hopefully my stay in Columbia will be a lot better than Ecuador. An interesting fact: I arrived Columbia on their Independence Day. 

(No, Ecuador is not bad. Just that I had bad experiences in Ecuador. I love the Galapagos, and the people in BoutiQuito were really nice. Plus, I got to experience two nights of sorority living. I can now understand why they recommend ear plugs for hostels, just in case.)

Center and the World

7/19/15

   
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
 We are all slightly obsessed with being the center. Center of attention, center of attraction, epicenter, the list goes on and on. We do not like people who are self centered, but like other people to gravitate towards us. Someone once told me that it is human nature to want to be liked (or is that a famous quote? I really should google things more often). So we obsessed with center, ask all students how to find the center of a circle, learn all about gravitational forces (F=G*M1*M2/R^2). 

So why am I saying all these? Well, I decided to visit the center of the earth (Mitad del Mundo), which happens to be 45 mins away from Quito. I have a lot of mixed feeling about going: since it involves taking 3 buses that lasts for 2 hours (Or I could take a taxi, but then again, I just had to paid a lot to replace a stolen phone…). I went for a long run in the morning to clear my head, and convinced myself I should continue to do tourist things and appreciate the city, regardless of my bad experience so far. After all, Christ told Peter to forgive people a lot of nine times (which always make me wonder: why 9? Was it just because he knew Peter wasn’t good and Math?). 

After a quick brunch at a local cafe, I took a bus to plaza Marin, switch over a bus to Ophelia, then boarded another local bus to the center of the earth (where are the dinosaurs and underground lakes? If you are confused, there is a book call A journey to the center of the earth, which I love). It was a harrowing journey, not just because of the length; but also due to my own nervousness at times. Even though I know it is generally safe, I just could not help but feel a little apprehensive on buses after the events of the past few days. On the other hand. I was moderately amazed at managing to find the right buses at all the stations. Apparently my Spanish has finally improved enough to allow me to understand simple directions.

Actually Mitad del Mundo really means “the equator”, and it is what gave Ecuador its name. In 1736, a geodetic team from France mapped out the equator, and it is on that line that a monument was built. Therefore it is a little funny to learn that the French team was about 250 meters off the mark. Therefore, if you see all the photos of people straddling a yellow line (well, the yellow line at Mitad del Mundo that is. I am sure people straddle many things at many places), trying to prove they are in two hemisphere at once, you can tell them that they are 250 meters away from the real equator. After witnessing some very acrobatic and sometimes weirdly inappropriate poses on the said yellow line, I went into the actual museum, where a lot of fun physics experiments were on display. The most famous one is, of course, the Corollas effect: water bends and spins clockwise or anti-clockwise depending whether is in to the south or north of the equator. It is more for children, but I spent a lot of time playing with the exhibits too. It is fun to be reminded of what I had learned before. (That and seeing how the kids were confused by the exhibits. I finally know something that other people don’t !)

 The journey back to town was another 2 hours, with some confusion on cost of bus fare and my constant musing on why buses were so crowded on a Sunday evening. After that, it was another Herculean task to find a restaurant that was open on a Sunday, and I finally ate at a pizza place. As I was eating, I finally realized what made Ecuador such an usual place for me: the people. It is one of the few places where I see a grown man fighting for a free seat on a bus from old ladies or children. It is also a place where when lining up to pay for items, locals would cut the queue and pretend they did not see you waiting in line. It is also a place where the waiters will remind you tips are not included, but never remind you when tops are included in the check. Then again, when the city is named after the Equator and Mitad del Mundo literally means middle of the earth, I guess the citizens have a right to be self-centered. 

(Wait, what?!)

The Art of (almost) getting Pick Pocketed

7/18/15

   
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
 There is a Chinese saying: there is being a thief for a thousand years, but there is no preventing thieves for a thousand years (wow, I really should work on my translation skill). Simply put, there is no way to prevent someone from stealing from you if they really set their minds to it. I always thought of it as referring to people you know trying to steal from you, but today, I think I have a new appreciation for that saying.I woke up pretty early to go onto my tour to Otavalo. I took a taxi to the meeting point (Plaza Foch), and came across my fellow trip mates: 3 from Holland., one Swiss (it is almost like a beginning of a joke). We waited for our van, had some major confusion on where to be, before eventually setting off 30 mins late (I guess that’s on time for Ecuador?). We started off to a view point, then to see a traditional biscuit factory, and then to see the landmark for the equator line (but not the big one for center of the earth?!), before arriving at Otavallo at 11am. After having been to many markets, Otavalo indeed impress with its scale and size. However, it is also a little disappointing since most stores sell about the same items. I walked around, more interested in the food stores than the souvenir stands (I guess my Chinese heritage is showing). I set my sight on a slow roasted pig store, and sat down to have a nice meal consisted of roasted pig, corn, potato (of course), and some pickled onions. It was extremely filling, and totally made up for my lack of breakfast. Feeling a lot more satiated (I love using this word!), I decided to try to buy a Panama hat (since they look s cool- literally. They are made of straw after all). I went around the market trying on hats, and the store owners were all really excited to help me ($_$). Unfortunately, I totally forgot one “defect” of mine- I have a big head (well, literally). All the store owners told me their hats were too small for my large head (that’s what she said?), and so I went back to the van empty “handed”.

We had lunch and then drove back to Quito. The few of us decided to end the day right with a round of beer, and so we sat at Plaza Foch drinking Club Beer while talking about education, politics, Quito, Holland and what we all plan to do on our trip. It was a great time, and we ended by wishing each other farewell, hoping to meet again someday. After that, Around 8:30pm, I went over to Republic of Cocoa for a quick look before walking back to hostel. I was contemplating the schedule for tomorrow (I really want to see the actual monument for the center of earth), when a young guy holding a tray approached me. It is a pretty common sight: these sellers usually carry a tray full of cigarettes, chocolates, gums, etc. to sell to people who are out and about (mostly for people who are drinking). He was really insistent and pushed the tray against my left side, saying “please buy something” the whole time. I kept trying to avoid him, but he kept pushing the tray onto me. It was then I felt a hand trying to grab something from my front jacket pocket. I caught his hand, and realized he was using the tray to cover his motion: his right hand was in my side pocket. I yelled at him, but he calmly pushed me away. We stared at each other before he slowly turned and walked away. (Ironically, I only have a city map in that pocket. My wallet and phone were elsewhere). 

I am not sure what to think. It is one thing to be robbed, but it is another thing to be robbed and then have an attempted at being pick pocketed within 2 days. A even more impressive fact was that the thief did not even run, he was so sure that no one will do anything that he walked away. I also knew there were police around, but none came when I yelled (maybe I should have punch the thief instead? Then I might have been sued by the thief….). This completely destroyed whatever good will I have of Quito. I am also bitterly disappointed. When I first planned my trip, I wanted to stay in Quito to study Spanish for another 2 weeks. But the recent events told me one clear thing: Quito is not a place to stay for long. There is simply no way I can watch my back day in and day out, fearful of being pick pocketed or robbed, while trying to enjoy a city. 

I now have a much better appreciation of the safety and police presence in all the cities I have lived in and visited. As the Chinese saying goes, there is simply no way to stay safe on outside elements want to harm you all the time. It is one thing to be vigilant, it is quite another matter when you are under constant attack. 

(I know, you think this is an exaggeration. As I said before, this is a travel blog of my experience. I am simply retelling events as it happened to me, and include my feelings and observations. I am sure some travelers have had great experiences in Quito too.) 

Politics and Economics

7/17/15

   
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
 It is weird how we like to think of things as black or white instead of shades of grey (about…50 shades of grey?!). In fact, we all make decisions based on our core value everyday(this subject seems really familiar. I think I am starting to recycle ideas). From whether we should tell a little white lie for special occasions, to whether we should end a life because we deem it necessary (die, mosquito, die! I wonder if Mother Teresa every kill a mosquito?). I am constantly amazed our society has not collapsed due to personal desires and wishes fulfillments (I mean, you know how I would deal with people who rob me..). 

I woke up feeling determined to do what I did not manage to do yesterday: go for a walking tour and find a way to Bogota. It is not that I don’t like Ecuador (well…), but I really need to move on since I already spent so much money in this country. I managed to get to Community Hostel by 10:30am without incident this time, and happily joined in the free (well, mostly free but you have to tip at the end) walking tour.

So as usual, here is the brain dump. The top three exports for Ecuador are: oil, banana and flower. There is a lot of controversy over petroleum, since it requires excavation below areas of natural reserve. In 2007 the president gave 6 years for the country to collect 40% of the potential revenue in return for the excavation to stop. Unfortunately, they only managed to collect 30% by the deadline, so the digging started. It has been having quite an impact in the environment, apparently. The city of Quito is also surround led by 8 volcanos, yet there have not been a big fire, earthquake or volcanic eruption for a long time on the city’s history. Therefore, the locals actually feel they have been very blessed. The main square, Plaza Grande/Independencia, is a dedication to the fight on August 9th 1809, where the local Spainards managed to gain independence of Quito. However, four months later, the Spanish retook city, and stabilized thornhold with a blood bath. On May 24, 1822, Simon Bolivia (Venezuelan)  joined with locals for the fight of independence. Tha last battle was fought on a mountain, and hence the locals had great advantage with the altitude. The country of Ecuador became part of the great Columbia. It was finally dissolved in 1930 and this country became republic of Ecuador. 

We also spent a few minutes to discuss why the country took US dollars as their official currency. In 1998, the biggest bank went bankrupt. The president (a Harvard graduate), decided to solve the crisis by printin more money. Eventually this led to the destabilization of the currency, causing panic and a run on the bank.  The president then announced a one week of bank closure, just in time to announce another collapse of two other banks. In an effort to stabilize the currency, they decided to adopt the U.S. Currency.
There were also a discussion on the currency president: Rafael Correa. From what we were told, he did a lot of good for the country. After finishing up 2 consecutive terms, he decided to change the constitution so he can serve a third term, which just started in 2014. 

As I sit in the hostel typing this, a thought came to me: so many presidents try to extend their terms, even changing constitutions just for that purposes. Also interesting, the citizens seemed quite ok with it, as long as the president is doing a relatively good job. I have to ask myself: what would I think if this happen elsewhere? Is a loss of character/virtue evidence/sign of corruption? After all, absolute power does corrupt. If a president does a good job, should he be allowed to change constitutions so he can be on power forever until he is no longer doing a good job? When does that become tyranny? 

Then I realize I am thinkin way too much. For me, I am more concern about things like how to get to my next destination, and continue cursing people who steal my stuff. 

The Art of Being Robbed

7/16/15

   
    
    
    
    
    
 Recently, on a boat in Galapagos, the subject of learning new lanaguage came up. We all agreed that one of the first things we learned when studying a new language: cursing. It is amazing how many curse words there are in so many different languages. Personally, I can do cursing in about 4 languages, but the most satisfying ones have to be in Chinese (both mandarin and Cantonese). We, as a race, have elevated cursing into an art form. We do not just curse at the people who angered us, we actually curse their ancestors, possible future generations, and everyone they are associated with. I usually prefer the U.S. way of F*ck you in most situations that irritate me, but today, I am fully using my Chinese cursing power.

I woke up in my new hostel, feelig mostly rested (well, I mean rested but could sleep more. You now that feeling.) Since breakfast cost $3.80, I decided to take the local bus and eat breakfast at the historic center. According to the hostel, it is only a 15 minutes bus ride for $0.25, and I could even catch the 10:30am free walking tour. Feeling somewhat excited on exploring a new city (and a city that was named world heritage site back in 1978 with Kraków), I went looking for the bus station.

I would skip the actual event (since I am still feeling rather angry and irritated about it. Like I can punch someone, round house kick, body slam kind of irritation). I was robbed of my iPhone on the bus. If you ever lost your phone, you know that feeling: like someone drop kicked you in the stomach and you suddenly feel nauseated. It was also ironic since I usually protect my phone really well. To present losses, I only carry 2 days cash in my wallet, and my backpack’s front is usually filled with tissues. I was just caught in a crowd and did not react in time. Classic tourist mistake in a crowde bus.

My adrenaline rushing through my body, I had to take a deep breathe and got off the bus. I have an old phone with me, so I went back to the hostel to get that. Unfortunately, the last backup of my phone was in an OS that was too new, so I decided to get a new phone instead. I did toy (not a toy phone) with the idea of not having a phone, but realize I need to communicate with lots of people. The phone also allows me to backup my photos, send messages and emails for information, and translate Spanish. 

In the end, I got my phone, a new Ecuadorean SIM card, and got the phone working. Trying to salvage the day, I walked around the old town square (hence braving the bus system once again). I saw a protest, but almost all the attractions were closed for the day. Feeling a little dejected, I came back to the hostel and rested.

It was a disappointing day( not to mention the amount of money I had to spent). I think this is the time to use this Chinese curse: for the person who stole my phone, may your ancestors be dug up, bones grounded to power and flung into the air. May your son and male decedents be retinal slaves, and may your daughters and female decedents be whores forever. As for the actual person who took my phone, may you watch all these happen, be powerless to stop it, and live in eternal misery and regret.

Now, that’s how the Chinese curses. 

Busing and Taxi-ing

7/15/15

   
   
Life is full of irony. Just after I typed the entry about what a wonderful tool travel blogs are these days, I have to broadcast bad news: I took a 9.5 hours bus ride from Guayaqil to Quito today, then another 40 mins of local bus ride from the bus station to downtown, then another 10 mins taxi ride to my hostel in La Mariscal. So the rest of this is more observations about Ecaudor so far and complaints. Read on at your own discretion! I will try to be funnier tomorrow. (Well, maybe. I am never sure if I am funny in the first place. Except dirty jokes. Especially 4th grader level ones.)

Instead, I will say something about my impression of Ecuador so far. I hate to be disparaging about anything (and I am Chinese, so you know I am always polite in front of people), but so far, Ecuador is not impressing me as a country for tourists. Don’t get me wrong, I love the Galápagos Islands, the beautiful city of Cuenca, and the modern convenience of hot water and working toilets; but as a tourist, I don’t think Ecuador has a little distance to cover. For example, the bus station in Guayaqil is great, huge, modern and in the city center; but it is also slightly confusing. You buy tickets on the ground floor, then have to find the corresponding bus on either the 1,2, or 3 floor upstairs. There are 2 tickets: one for entering the gates, and the other for the bus. It is actually not too complicated- if they bother to explain it to you. Instead, the bus agents just hands you the tickets and acts like you should know exactly where to go and what to do. However, the policemen/women are really helpful if you ask them for help. 

The buses are seldom on schedule, and I just witness a case where a complete stranger was able to get onto the bus and randomly direct people to random seats ( even though we all had assigned seats) as a ploy to let his friend ride for free. I guess he thought that if everyone were in the wrong seats, the conductors would be too confused to check tickets. The ploy failed badly (since they obviously check tickets before and during the trip), but the fact they allowed it to be so confusing for passengers were, well confusing to comprehend. 

The last issues I have: everyone is asking for tips or inflat prices when they see you are a tourist. For example, the hostel called me a can, and told me it would be $4. The taxi driver then insisted it is actually $5, and I should also give him tips. Several waiters also told me tips are not included in my bill, so I should leave a tip. Of course, I am always appreciative of good service, but to tell tourists to tip seems…a little strange.

However, I have also met some very nice people, seen some beautiful sceneries. Maybe I have just been pampered by the great services in Galápagos? Let me sleep in my 6 people dorm and figure that out…while hoping no one snores too badly. (Or maybe witness some acrobatic acts?! One can only dream..) 

Museums and Blogs

7/14/15

   
    
    
    
    
    
    
 It is amazing how powerful guidebooks and travel websites are. I think all the travelers I have met have a love/hate relationship with them. We can’t live without them, since they give us advise on restaurants and lodgings. Tripadvisor, wiki travel, Hotwire, lonely planet, are the go to webpages on everyone’s smart phones. I still lug around a 2013 version of Lonely Planet South America, but have steadily discovered how out-of-date the book is. Amazingly, talking to some fellow travelers, I have learned that we are all discovering the power of travel blogs. In fact, they usually contain much more up-to-date information, recommend better restaurants, and is generally more trustworthy. (That’s another drawback with guidebooks and websites: once they recommend something, all tourists flock towards it, usually making that recommendation much more expensive, and something with poorer service.) 

I woke up with my bed started shaking (still not in a good way…) and realized my upstairs bunk mate was trying to get to the bathroom. I am still on the process of getting used to share dorms. It is almost always a game of chance (and we all know how my luck is): sometimes you get roommates who snores, sometimes you get people who like to get drunk, and sometimes you get to witness some very acrobatic pornographic display (now those, are extremely educational, in my opinion). I went downstairs for breakfast (and encountered an older English gentlemen who kept instating the toaster was not hot enough. My toast was fine, but he then went on to assist everyone with their toasts. It was very unusual. Maybe he has a bread fetish?) before setting off to the museums.

I visited both the Museo Antropologico and Artes Contemproraneo; and the Museo Nahim Isaias. They both have a similarity: there were a lot less exhibits than available floor space. While both museums are free, there were really not many exhibits, and it was quite a let down as a museum lover (wow, that totally sounds like I hump museums. I obviously do not). It took me less than 2 hours to finish both museums, and I was again left with nothing to do. I thought about exploring the town further south (heh. And please ignore it if you have not idea what joke I just attempted to make. It’s for 10 year olds. Who speaks good English), but the humidity and sun was just too oppressive. 

I ended up in a chain coffee joint called (Sweets and Coffee) drinking a coffee and planning the next portion of my trip. I sat surrounding by locals who were dressed in business attire, discussing deals and/or their day so far. It was such a familiar conversation (well, except it was in Spanish); I remember doing the exact same thing with my friends everyday when I was working. It actually felt good to be the exception, and I was moderately proud of myself until the staffs kept looking at my empty coffee cup. Taking it as a cue (or maybe they just really like my used cup?), I escaped back into the wild of Gauyaqil. 

The rest of the day went pretty quietly, though I once again have a new roommate. I am planning to leave tomorrow for Quito (where it is high on a mountain and low in temperatures: 20 degrees lower than Gauyaqil to be exact). I am desperately hoping i will have a good rest tonight, but I guess it will also depend on luck once again. Writing in this blog, I am amazed how technology has change the landscape of travel advice. We used to be dependent on the brick of a book called South American guidebook by lonely planet/frommers/some random publisher. Now, we all have our own blogs and dispenses travel recommendations for free. It is a testament to how powerful personal statements and opinions have become in this date and age.

(Although, can someone please write an app that allows travelers to rate their bunk mates? I will be the first to use it and tag all those who snore like a pig after rolling in heavy duty mud…)

Planning and Preparing

7/13/15

   
    
    
   
  
I seldom talk about the elephant in the room (since I am not in India…): this blog. It is like a friend with dual personality. One day, writing is a lot of fun and thoughts just flood your mind. The next day, you just have nothing to say (well, except some fourth grade dirty jokes). Believe it or not (just like Ripley’s), I often run out of things to discuss with myself. I mean, I love talk to myself, but sooner or later I may develop another personality that thinks sitting at home watching TV is a lot better than traveling. 

It was weird waking up and remembering I am on land. I did not sleep well at all because the two English guys sharing my room refused to turn on the air conditioner. I switched the fan on, and they both put on woolen blankets (even though it was 24 Celsius in the hall- and the hall was cooler than the room). I woke up sweaty (which sounds a lot more pornographic than it should…), and went down for breakfast. The goal of the day was easy: relax, run errands, and visit some museums.

Of course, I only realize museums are all closed for Monday when I arrived at the museums of antropology and modern arts. Feelings a little dejected and sweating profusely under the sun (like a whore in church?), I walked back to the supermarket to replace my lost toiletries. Mission accomplished, I went to a coffee shop to celebrate with an ice tea. It was also then I discover why i have been blowing my budget whenever I am in Guayaquil: the heat makes me want a cold drink, and j always give into the temptation and buy something to drink. I think I drank at least 3 ice teas, 1 bottle water, 1 fruit salad and 1 tea. I am happy I am so well hydrated, but I really must curb this mindless purchase of cold beverages. (Funnily, the thought of buying a cold beer did not cross my mind. I think I have been reformed! Hmm, I see there is a shop over there with ice cold delicious beers..)

I walked to a few parks, especially one with tamed iguanas and turtles. However, everything pales in comparison after Galapagos (especially my bank account. It is suffering from an acute loss of funds). The highlight came when I received a Facebook message from David and Sarah (whom I met on the Bolivia Hop Bus and had drinks in Cuzco). They sent me some excellent suggestions for Columbia (which is now their favourite country to visit). This encouraged me to rethink my itinerary: I will head straight up to Quito, skipping Montanita and the train ride at Nariz del Diablo. After that, I will visit Otavalo for the Subday market, and then head up to Columbia. 

Thus, I am now sitting in a coffee shop trying to plan my trip in Columbia, a country I never planned to visit on this trip. I guess all these high praises of Columbia are having a toll on me, and I now must go see it for myself. It is funny how trip morphs and twists in different directions. In a way, this blog has too. When I started, I was just trying to record down what I was doing everyday. Along the way, for some strange reason, I decided to add my own opinions into my posts. Now, I felt like it has taken a life on its own and I am just constantly feeding it ideas. Take today for example. Absolutely nothing happened, but I still managed to type up this whole page of…blabber. I guess As with my trip, I will just have to be patient and see where this leads me.

(And err… Thanks for reading through this post! I have to say, You guys are very patient and nice readers. I promise better things and more bad jokes in the future.)

Reality and City

7/12/15

   
    

 
   
    
    
    
 (Here’s wishing all the people i have come to know and really like in my 4 days cruise: Happy Traveling! And I do hope to see everyone again someday soon. The “Swiss” team whom where delayed by the Pope; the New Zealanders, especially Ross with his jokes and successful attentions to loosening up the crew; Fabian and Irene from Australia; and the very global father and daughter team who live in Miami but have traveled everywhere I wanted to; our guide Wilo who is funny and creative with his gopro movies; and the whole crew of Nemo III. Definitely a trip I will remember for a very long time. Well, at least until my sunburnt heals). 

Sometimes, it is hard to tell what is important to me. (Well, after the recent bout with good, I’d say health.) When I was studying, all I want was to graduate and get a job. After I graduate and got a job, all I want was to get promoted, earn more money and be important. Then when that did not happen (~.~), all I want was a way out and try to re-center myself (wait, what does that even mean?). Now that I am traveling, all I want is to not ever stop. 

I woke up at 5:45am morning, ready for our 6am trip to Isla Mosquera. (Btw, the other island on the first day was Isla Santa Fe.) it is now a familiar routine: pick up shoes, wear life vest, get camera ready and troop down to the dingy call Zodiac. Since this is the last morning, we were all ready to go on time, even our guide. We set off in the early morning light, excited to see more sealions and our final walk on a Galapagos beach. Since it was one of the crew member’s  (Israel) birthday, we sang birthday song before setting off into the sea. 

We got to the white sandy beach only for the crew to realize a problem: low tide + rocky shore= no landing. There was so tension between our guide and the crew, but in the end our guide suggested going for a ride around Seymour Island instead. It was still a great trip though, for we saw Frigate birds, blue foot boobies, Wet fur seal and many other birds. We all had a great time watching how the male blue footed boobies dances and puff up their red chest to attract the females. There was a few jokes about how our sunburnt chest could do the same. I think that would still be easier than what we guys now have to do to court someone. Also, I like the idea of inflatable breast. Imagine how interesting it will be if females can choose their cup sizes according to occasions! A for night gowns, D for bikinis. The opportuties are endless.) All in all, even though we did not get to walk on the beach, it was a great ending to the tour.

After that, it was a rushed breakfast (though still awesomely delicious) for everyone as we packed our bags and got ready to depart. We all took our last trip in the dingy to Baltra, where the airport was located. Most people had the 10:30am flight out, but I (being special and cheap) chose the 12:30pm. So it was another long wait at the airport for me. (Well, I did not realize it takes almost 2 hours to get to town from the airport, and had thought I could use that time to walk around Santa Cruz. Bad plan!) I did, however, got to know the airport really well, so much so that it was a joke within our group. The flight back was non-eventful, and I took a cab back to the hostel (with inflated price).

I should have known better than to trust the hostel here (I already had two bad experiences). They somehow lost my small plastic bag containing toiletries, even though it was left right next to my backpack. I gave up explaining and went for a quick dinner, coffee and am now typing in my hostel. It was a funny feeling: I just conpleted the most anticipated activity I had when I first started the trip. It was, without a doubt, the best highlight thus far. While it is satisfying and really enjoyable, I am already looking forward to Columbia, all tourists’ favorite country. It was strange: accomplish my goal immediately triggered the response of generating a new goal. I guess that’s the way of goals and wishes: the more you accomplish them, the more distant new ones you set for yourself. It is never a race against anything but yourself. 

Walking and Learning

7/11/15

   
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
   
There is a Chinese saying: studying ten thousand books is not as good as walking ten thousand miles (actually that would not be quite true with a time limit. Not that difficult to walk 10,000 steps over a decade…). I do agree, but also believe that it is quite beneficial (to myself, I guess?) to both read and travel. It tend to reinforce each other in unexpected ways. (Of course, I am not saying that you should kill someone just becomes you like reading real life crimes. But if you do like reading about real people getting killed, I do highly recommend a talk with your friendly psychologist.) 

The catamaran traveled smoothly the night before and everyone onboard had a great night of rest (ah, except the crew, who had to man the catamaran). We all work up around 6:15 for our first activity: a ride in the dingy (what a weird name) around Bartolome Island. As usual, the views were superbly spectacular, and the sun rise amazingly beautiful. We also saw penguins, lots of birds, iguanas and sea lions. We returned to the boat for a quick breakfast, and then headed out for a hike. 
Bartolome island is known for its great panorama view of the surrounding islands. We walked up about 300+ steps to the top, and the view was indeed spectacular. The unspoiled ocean, multiple volcanic islands, blue sky and wild lives all formed a perfect photo. As usual, we all posed and took thousands (well, maybe not that much. Chalk that to artistic exaggeration) of photos. Our guide explained that the island was formed by volcanic eruptions, and the latest eruption was in 2015 by volcano wolf (I know. A strange name for a volcano). It is quite interesting to know we are standing quite near (well, relatively near) to an active volcano, and that it is forming new island, already inhabited by iguanas. In fact, the iguanas there modified their habits in order to survive: instead of being the always alone, the have learned to huddle for warmth at night while on top of the volcano. They then travel down the crater to warm ashes and lay eggs (and often fall to death. The joy of procreation). 
After lunch, we arrived at our second island: the Sombrero Chino (Chinese hat). I am not quite sure what a Chinese hat looks like, but the island does look like a hat of indeterminable origin. We hiked along the beach front, and was lectures and questioned on the local animals, marine life forms, and our favorite island in Galapagos. (Why do tourist come? to see the endemic life. What two types of iguanas? Land and sea. It was also the first island we have been on where there were multiple tour groups visiting at the same time. It was a small reminder that today was out last full day and soon we will all be leaving this beautiful environment. 

We then went on either a kayaking tour or snorkeling trip. It was a great excursion, and everyone saw sharks, starfishes, fishes, penguins and white corrals. After that, we all sat around the boat to watch the sunset, before getting fed. 
The dining area had since turned into a dance hall. Since my room was directly to the right, I could see flashing lights and hear dance music drifting in the air. Being the lazy person I am, I joined in for about 45 mins and decided to get some precious sleep before a full day tomorrow: a last visit to another island and then fly back to Guayaquil. I feel pretty sad I am leaving this place so soon (well, my bank account is probably heaving a huge sigh of relief), but am very glad I came (to the Galápagos Islands!). It is indeed a special place: vibrant creatures, breathtaking landscapes and wonderful journeys. However, nothing compare to the absolute joy and wonder at seeing this place and witnessing the animals that I have been reading about for such a long time. Ever since 2000, I have dreamt of visiting the Galápagos Islands. While this trip may not be as long as I wanted, it is a prove to myself that I am finally realizing my dream destinations (well, 15 years later…). With this experience, I have to say what they (who?) say is true: reading about Galapagos is nothing compare to visiting the Galápagos. Seeing all the colors, smelling the air, touching (well not the animals) the water, and living on a catamaran during the visit: that makes the trip real. Nothing beats experiencing something first hand, especially something you have read about, dreamt about, and obsessed about. 
(Ok, so I could have done Galápagos Islands earlier. However, in my mind, I always group this with my South America trip. I totally could and should have do this by itself. I am already thinking of coming back.)
Some information:

1. It is indeed cheaper to book cruises last minute from Santa Crux or San Cristobel. However, you are also at the mercy of availability. This is especially true in the busy season from June to September. 
2. There are 85 cruise boats allowed in the park. Depending on their sizes, they are given route and itinerary by the state. It is best to check the boat’s itinerary before booking, in order to ensure they visit the islands you prefer.
3. I went with Peak Agency on The boat Nemo III. The crew is professional, the guide is great, and the food amazing. However, as with all tours, it is the other tourists that may make or break the experience.
4. Be very comfortable with water, open water, snorkeling, swimming, and be prepare to get on and off boats a lot. There will also be some walking and hiking.
5. If you plan to go on a smaller boat, and if you get sea sick, be sure to bring medication. Our boat saw 2 meter swells crashing against our sides. The result: 4 out of 15 passengers ate dinner that day. You may also need diarrhea medications due to the water, local fruits, etc. 
6. Tips are expected (separately) for the crew and the guide. Alcohol, soft drinks and candies are extra. But they provide water. And our food were amazing. We also had snacks and juices in the afternoons and evenings.
7. I flew into the Baltra airport (for Santa Cruz). The other airport is on San Cristobel (I failed to visit that since I was sick). Beware: things are relatively expensive (compare to the rest of Ecuador) in Galapagos. Mostly because they have to ship everything in. So get supplies before flying in if you can.
8. There is a $20 transit fee (due at either Quito or Guayaquil), and $100 Park fee (due at destination airport). There are lots of restrictions, so be sure not to bring banned items.  
9. Anyone who wants to work in the national park must be Ecuadorian and a resident of Galapagos (by birth or marriage). 97% of the islands are national parks. The other 3% are privately owned. I have heard there are a few places for volunteering, but did not seek them out. 
10. Lastly, I do recommend taking the tour package if you can afford it. You get picked up, immediately head to the boat, do the tour, send back to the airport, checked in by the guide and then fly off again. It saves a lot of time and effort. If you are doing independent traveling and time is not an issue, then DIY is a fun way to go. Plus, bragging rights!