7/11/15
There is a Chinese saying: studying ten thousand books is not as good as walking ten thousand miles (actually that would not be quite true with a time limit. Not that difficult to walk 10,000 steps over a decade…). I do agree, but also believe that it is quite beneficial (to myself, I guess?) to both read and travel. It tend to reinforce each other in unexpected ways. (Of course, I am not saying that you should kill someone just becomes you like reading real life crimes. But if you do like reading about real people getting killed, I do highly recommend a talk with your friendly psychologist.)
The catamaran traveled smoothly the night before and everyone onboard had a great night of rest (ah, except the crew, who had to man the catamaran). We all work up around 6:15 for our first activity: a ride in the dingy (what a weird name) around Bartolome Island. As usual, the views were superbly spectacular, and the sun rise amazingly beautiful. We also saw penguins, lots of birds, iguanas and sea lions. We returned to the boat for a quick breakfast, and then headed out for a hike.
Bartolome island is known for its great panorama view of the surrounding islands. We walked up about 300+ steps to the top, and the view was indeed spectacular. The unspoiled ocean, multiple volcanic islands, blue sky and wild lives all formed a perfect photo. As usual, we all posed and took thousands (well, maybe not that much. Chalk that to artistic exaggeration) of photos. Our guide explained that the island was formed by volcanic eruptions, and the latest eruption was in 2015 by volcano wolf (I know. A strange name for a volcano). It is quite interesting to know we are standing quite near (well, relatively near) to an active volcano, and that it is forming new island, already inhabited by iguanas. In fact, the iguanas there modified their habits in order to survive: instead of being the always alone, the have learned to huddle for warmth at night while on top of the volcano. They then travel down the crater to warm ashes and lay eggs (and often fall to death. The joy of procreation).
After lunch, we arrived at our second island: the Sombrero Chino (Chinese hat). I am not quite sure what a Chinese hat looks like, but the island does look like a hat of indeterminable origin. We hiked along the beach front, and was lectures and questioned on the local animals, marine life forms, and our favorite island in Galapagos. (Why do tourist come? to see the endemic life. What two types of iguanas? Land and sea. It was also the first island we have been on where there were multiple tour groups visiting at the same time. It was a small reminder that today was out last full day and soon we will all be leaving this beautiful environment.
We then went on either a kayaking tour or snorkeling trip. It was a great excursion, and everyone saw sharks, starfishes, fishes, penguins and white corrals. After that, we all sat around the boat to watch the sunset, before getting fed.
The dining area had since turned into a dance hall. Since my room was directly to the right, I could see flashing lights and hear dance music drifting in the air. Being the lazy person I am, I joined in for about 45 mins and decided to get some precious sleep before a full day tomorrow: a last visit to another island and then fly back to Guayaquil. I feel pretty sad I am leaving this place so soon (well, my bank account is probably heaving a huge sigh of relief), but am very glad I came (to the Galápagos Islands!). It is indeed a special place: vibrant creatures, breathtaking landscapes and wonderful journeys. However, nothing compare to the absolute joy and wonder at seeing this place and witnessing the animals that I have been reading about for such a long time. Ever since 2000, I have dreamt of visiting the Galápagos Islands. While this trip may not be as long as I wanted, it is a prove to myself that I am finally realizing my dream destinations (well, 15 years later…). With this experience, I have to say what they (who?) say is true: reading about Galapagos is nothing compare to visiting the Galápagos. Seeing all the colors, smelling the air, touching (well not the animals) the water, and living on a catamaran during the visit: that makes the trip real. Nothing beats experiencing something first hand, especially something you have read about, dreamt about, and obsessed about.
(Ok, so I could have done Galápagos Islands earlier. However, in my mind, I always group this with my South America trip. I totally could and should have do this by itself. I am already thinking of coming back.)
Some information:
1. It is indeed cheaper to book cruises last minute from Santa Crux or San Cristobel. However, you are also at the mercy of availability. This is especially true in the busy season from June to September.
2. There are 85 cruise boats allowed in the park. Depending on their sizes, they are given route and itinerary by the state. It is best to check the boat’s itinerary before booking, in order to ensure they visit the islands you prefer.
3. I went with Peak Agency on The boat Nemo III. The crew is professional, the guide is great, and the food amazing. However, as with all tours, it is the other tourists that may make or break the experience.
4. Be very comfortable with water, open water, snorkeling, swimming, and be prepare to get on and off boats a lot. There will also be some walking and hiking.
5. If you plan to go on a smaller boat, and if you get sea sick, be sure to bring medication. Our boat saw 2 meter swells crashing against our sides. The result: 4 out of 15 passengers ate dinner that day. You may also need diarrhea medications due to the water, local fruits, etc.
6. Tips are expected (separately) for the crew and the guide. Alcohol, soft drinks and candies are extra. But they provide water. And our food were amazing. We also had snacks and juices in the afternoons and evenings.
7. I flew into the Baltra airport (for Santa Cruz). The other airport is on San Cristobel (I failed to visit that since I was sick). Beware: things are relatively expensive (compare to the rest of Ecuador) in Galapagos. Mostly because they have to ship everything in. So get supplies before flying in if you can.
8. There is a $20 transit fee (due at either Quito or Guayaquil), and $100 Park fee (due at destination airport). There are lots of restrictions, so be sure not to bring banned items.
9. Anyone who wants to work in the national park must be Ecuadorian and a resident of Galapagos (by birth or marriage). 97% of the islands are national parks. The other 3% are privately owned. I have heard there are a few places for volunteering, but did not seek them out.
10. Lastly, I do recommend taking the tour package if you can afford it. You get picked up, immediately head to the boat, do the tour, send back to the airport, checked in by the guide and then fly off again. It saves a lot of time and effort. If you are doing independent traveling and time is not an issue, then DIY is a fun way to go. Plus, bragging rights!
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